Dec 202012
 

The eflite Mystique is a 2.9m sailplane. I’m going to do a build review and report on the flying of this aircraft. I’m a newbie to sailplanes having dabbled in sports gliders in the past this is my first proper F5J sailplane.

Here are eflite’s specs,

Overview

The E-flite® Mystique™ 2.9 m ARF aircraft is an electric sailplane inspired by F5J-class competition and similar Limited Motor Run events popular around the globe. Like most sailplanes focused on performance, the Mystique 2.9 m sailplane delivers an outstanding RC soaring experience, even if all you’re looking for is a glider to enjoy on a lazy afternoon. Its impressive wing uses the versatile Selig SD3021 airfoil that’s proven to be excellent in model applications with lightweight, open-bay construction by offering good low speed characteristics, as well as the ability to move quickly from thermal to thermal. The contour of the molded fiberglass fuselage is sleek yet provides ample room for its pushrods to run internally and still have room for a powerful Li-Po motor battery.

Product Specifications

Wingspan: 114 in (2.9 m)
Overall Length: 58.5 in (1.48 m)
Wing Area: 1034 sq in (66.7 sq dm)
Flying Weight: 4.20–4.60 lb (1.90–2.05 kg) unpowered; 4.85–5.00 lb (2.20–2.25 kg) powered
Motor Size: Power 25
Radio: 6-channel minimum radio system
Servos: 6 required (2 mini, 4 thin-wing)
Trim Scheme Colors: UltraCote® White, Transparent Red, Transparent Yellow
CG (center of gravity): 4.75 in (122mm) from leading edge of wing at wing root
Wing Loading: 10.9 oz/sq ft
Prop Size: 14 x 8 folding
Spinner Size: 1.57 in (40mm)
Speed Control : 60-amp brushless
Recommended Battery: 11.1V 3S 3200mAh 30C Li-Po
Flaps: Yes
Control Throw (Ailerons): 18° up, 12° down, 25% expo
Control Throw (Elevator): 15° up/down, 10% expo
Control Throw (Rudder): 30° right/left, 15% expo
Control Throw (Flaps): 30° for landing; reflex 1/16 in (1.5mm) up; camber 1/8 in (3mm) down
Minimum Age Recommendation: 14 years
Experience Level: Intermediate
Recommended Environment: Outdoor
Assembly Time: 10-15 Hours
Is Assembly Required: Yes

For pure sailplane setup:
– 6+ channel transmitter and receiver radio system
– Receiver pack
– Servos – (2) micro servos and (4) thin-wing servos
– Charger for receiver pack

For electric sailplane setup:
– 6+ channel transmitter and receiver radio system
– 25-size brushless outrunner motor
– 60-amp brushless ESC
– 11.1V 3S 3200mAh 30C Li-Po battery
– Servos – (2) micro servos and (4) thin-wing servos
– Folding propeller and spinner
– Charger for flight battery

Colourful Box, protects the kit well.

Inside the box, everything is well packaged in individual clear bags, foam & cardboard supports in the vital areas.

Eflite instructions are always improving, this manual has a new system of symbols in certain area’s to denote a building process, tool or glue to be used. It’s very useful and simplifies the build process by reducing the wording required.

First thing in the instruction manual is to glue the control horns into the rudder & wing. The wing is a 2piece setup & has control horns for both aileron & flaps. The horn is a fibreglass material, after a light sand to the contact surface I used Bob Smith 30min epoxy to glue 5 control horns in place, masking off the edges so no epoxy would run over.

Onto preparing the servos for the wing. I elected to use the recomended thin A7020 servos, these are a little metal geared digital servos with good specs. The manual explains very well the servo arm setup. As you can see a short arm is required to maximize resolution and control, it’s a sailplane after all so no large throws required.

The four wing servos prepared. They fix to the wing via the hatch covers. The Instructions recommend that the servos are epoxied to the hatch and in turn it is screwed to the wing, in the preformed openings. At first I was a little cautions of this, I never liked glueing an item in place that I might later need to remove, to replace a gear or reuse elsewhere. The logic behind this though is well thought out. Applying a thin layer of epoxy means that if required you can ‘snap’ the glue joint and remove the servo, the upside is that if you have a hard landing in long grass and you servo linkage snags, it will break the glue joint not your servo gear of rip the hatch out. Seems a good idea to me, it also keeps the weight to a minimum which is always a key concern.

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After the servos were prepared, they could be installed in the wings. For the ailerons a 600mm extension cable was routed through the wing ribs, eflite had installed a length of string to help pull the cable through. At the joint between the plugs I always put a length of heat shrink to retain them, it’s clean & can be removed easily if required.

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The linkages for both ailerons & flaps are a standard length of 99mm, made up & locktited at one end to leave the other free for adjustment.

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Centring the control surface, adjust the linkage so the servo is centred without the need for subtrim on the transmitter. Locktite the linkage at this stage. The plastic ferrings are epoxied in place to protect the horn and to streamline the air over it. The wings are now complete.

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With the wings complete, the fuselage is next. The rudder hinges are epoxied in with 30min epoxy, the instructions helpfully recommend you add some Vaseline to the hinge pin so the glue won’t bind the joint. I glued the hinges into the rudder side first and allowed the glue to cure.

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Gluing the rudder to the finish was next, same principle with 30min epoxy used.

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The servos I used for the elevator & rudder were the Spektrum A4020. These are metal geared mini digital servos. As you can see a small servo arm again is required, to maximise resolution.

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The rudder control linkage is long control rod with a pre-soldered threaded end for the metal clevis at the servo arm. The rudder horn end is a simple 90-deg bend with a retaining plastic link. As with the aileron/flaps, centre the servo arm and adjust the clevis so the rudder is centred without subtrim. Then locktite the clevis.

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The all moving stabiliser has two carbon rods to hold it together and as the pivot/arm. The front rod is the pivot and the rear rod connects to a bell crank that the servo operates. The rods are held in place with some hot glue, not much as you might wish to remove them.

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The linkage at the elevator bell crank. The hatch cover is held in place with some tape.

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The rudder & elevator servos Installed in the fuselage. I elected to use the the AR7010 RX as recommended.

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The eflite power25 motor was installed next. The speed controller I used was an eflite 60amp with BEC. The fuselage nose was pre drilled for this motor.

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The eflite folding prop adaptor specifically for this motor comes with the adaptor, blades, retaining pins and a aluminium spinner cone.

Flying

The test flight took place on Boxing Day and I have to say to say it was really uneventful. The Power 25 & 3s 3200mah lipo gives superb performance and duration, infact after over 25mins of power on & gliding I got too cold and landed.

The Mystique performs brilliantly in the glide, so smooth and it seemed to stay up forever! The combination of the flaps and aileron’s and adjusting camber will take some learning, but the instruction’s recommended settings are a really good base.

I’m looking forward to flying this more. Here are some pictures.

Mystique Glider

m3 Mystique m4 m9 m8 m7 m6 m5

Thanks,

 

Matthew

 Posted by at 2:15 pm

  2 Responses to “Eflite Mystique 2.9m”

  1. Don’t forget to get yourself a vario thingy, it will add loads of fun, when you can hear those big bubbles! (and it does help keeping things under control when you are at 1000 feet up)

  2. Great review,always good to see what you get when you part from your hard earnt cash,everything looks superb quality,going to airshow tomorrow so may have my own this time tomorrow,many thanks dave

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